"Yahooooooooo!" I imagine that there must have been some sort of primal whoop going through this guy's mind. I wish I could track him down and show him the photograph I was able to get. The only thing as coveted as a good run, is a photo of it. Am I right?
I spent a good three hours watching and photographing the surf at the Banzai Pipeline on Oahu's North Shore. The waves did indeed form a pipe and it was interesting to watch the 50+ surfers floating on their boards waiting to sync up with the perfect wave.
I gave into the calm rhythm of the waves - it gave me time to think. No phones, no conversation, no hurry. I loved it.