City Series: Hudson River Valley: Frederic Church's Estate Olana

Ooh la la...Olana!  I was able to route our day of exploration in the Hudson River Valley to the estate of the famed American painter, Frederic Church.  

My mom has long admired the paintings by the artists of the Hudson River School and she has several beautiful coffee table books on the subject.  In this case, school in Hudson River School is used to describe the style and era, rather than an actual place of study.  While I was in Upstate New York, I heard the phrase "fleet of sloops"  coming through the phone receiver every time I called home.  You see, a relative of mine was the Captain of a fleet of sloops on the Hudson way back when and my mom was trying to peak my interest.

When I asked more questions, I found out that my relatives were from Nyack, much farther south down the Hudson than I would be able to travel on this long weekend.  But I'll be back, armed with a camera and a family tree and I promise to tour the area properly.  

Frederic Church was a prized pupil of the Hudson River School founder, Thomas Cole and they both eventually lived and painted on opposite sides of the Hudson River.  Our enthusiastic guide pointed out Cole's home, which is also a historic site, as we looked at the familiar view from Olana's porch. 

I have a policy of stopping in the gift shop first, whenever I visit a museum or historic site.  You see, I love to buy cards, posters and paper souvenirs at museum gift shops and it only took me "running out of time" once to set this important policy.  Remember when I only had about 8 minutes to shop the store at Windsor Castle?  I showed the teenage clerk what "power shopping" meant! Anyhoo, now I start at the gift shop and always I have plenty of time to explore my options.  This is what I bought at Olana; framable cards of Church's major works. 

I may scan one of these images and then print it on inkjet fabric and make it into a personalized souvenir. Remember how this painting-turned-pillow turned out?  You can shop for postcards from Olana here.

The home, Olana, that Church collaborated on with architects, was heavily influenced by his overseas trip to Lebanon, Palestine, Israel, Jordan and Syria. The Persian-style home includes intricate woodwork, painted glass panels and mosaics.  Church was even known to mix the paint color for the walls himself - creating just the right hue to complete his vision.  His paintings hang in many rooms around the house and are all in place, just where he enjoyed them, during his life. 

Photography is not allowed inside Olana, but I found this official video that talks of his life, inspiration and tours the inside of this famous home.  If you are interested, you should watch this official video created for Olana, a State of New York historic site.

  

I was able to get a few great photos of Olana's exterior.

And this one of the grand porch, just off of Church's studio, overlooking the Hudson.

 And the same porch, photographed from the outside.

One aspect of Church's work that I wish that I could show you are his sketches. There are few framed upstairs that show the landscape roughed out in pencil, then you can read his writing that says (something to the effect of): "deeper blue here, lighter than sky" or "moss green - A and B" and then you could find the A and B on the sketch, as if Church was building his own paint-by-number. I had never seen an artist's sketch like that, have you?

I am so lucky to have had a chance to go on a guided tour of Frederic Church's Olana and then wander his gardens on the estate.

While living at Olana, Church had the property planted with thousands of trees and plants to create a lush landscape to paint.  It is an inspirational estate.

City Series: Hudson, New York: Artisanal Ice Cream: Lick

When I walked into the tiny tiny ice cream shop called Lick in Hudson, New York and saw the listing of artisanal flavors, I found myself wanting too much of a good thing.  Their flavor list was extensive and I narrowed it down to: Lemon Poppyseed, Sassafras, Fig or Lavender. I mean I really couldn't decide.  I easily recommended ice cream pairings for my family (chocolate & lavender, lemon poppy seed and toasted coconut) but I just couldn't pass up any of them when it came to myself.

Finally the hipster scooper said, "Are you going to get 2 scoops?"  Yes, I answered.  "The how about I give you a  half portion of all four flavors?"  Bingo!  
And as I sat on a bench outside, licking and swooning over my ice cream, I appreciated his suggestion even more.  

The lemon poppyseed ice cream tastes so rich and delicate that it could be described as "fancy."  It is bridal shower-worthy, if that makes my meaning more clear.  

The fig ice cream was not vanilla ice cream studded with fig bits. It was a delicious ice cream full of rich fig flavor.  I'd love this flavor paired with a piece of gingerbread cake.

The sassafras ice cream was nice, reminiscent of root beer, but it was my least favorite of the four.  The sassafras wasn't strong enough to hold its own against the creaminess of the ice cream. That said, Dan's uncle ate a large waffle cone of just sassafras ice cream and he was in 7th heaven.  He asked how I had "known" that we should stop for ice cream at Lick.  I told him that I had not heard about it in my research, but I knew that any place called Lick had to be serious about only one thing - artisanal ice cream! 

The lavender ice cream was silky and delicious.  Having had lavender ice cream (and shortbread, lemonade and chocolates) many times before, I knew that the lavender would be a strong flavor.  But they approach lavender just right, at Lick.  I enjoyed the floral notes and happily paired my spoonfuls with the fig ice cream (and some of Dan's dark chocolate ice cream - yum!).

City Series: Hudson, New York: Cafe Le Perche

When you are on a road trip, you always hope that the "arrival of lunchtime" and "finding a spot for lunch" will intersect.  I usually find a cute place to eat lunch when it's only 10:30 in the morning.  Or I'm starving, but there are only McDonalds for miles around.  

So when I realized that a French boulangerie was right down the street from where we were we would be shopping in Hudson, New York, I knew that this was going to be my kind of road trip.  Cafe Le Perche is a lovely little bistro and bakery in the heart of Hudson.

Dan and his aunt ordered Croque Monsieur (Grilled Brioche, Ham, Gruyere, Béchamel) which you can see in the top of the first photo and they loved it. Absolutely loved it.  You can see that I had a beautiful spinach salad with grilled chicken, goat cheese, candied nuts and fresh strawberries.  I'm trying to forget how much bread I ate.

It was fresh and chewy and perfectly delicious.  I just read the Cafe Le Perche story on the website and now I know why I couldn't stop eating their bread. 

They had a special 17-ton round brick and metal wood-burning oven shipped from France and assembled in the adjacent carriage house. (Click here to read their story and see photos of the oven being assembled). That amazing oven is where they can bake 200 of the most perfect baguettes.  I could eat them all.   

If you are driving around the Hudson River Valley, on a roadtrip looking for antiques or otherwise, you are sure to need some sustenance. Set your GPS to 230 Warren Street, Hudson, NY and fell confident that you will have a delightful meal. You can thank me later.

City Series: Hudson, New York: Shopping

I finally made it to the Hudson River Valley...although there is so much more to see! On our jaunt to visit my husband's family near Albany and then on to the Beekman Farm in Sharon Springs, we penciled in a day to explore the town of Hudson, New York and then tour nearby Olana, home of the famous American painter Frederic Edwin Church.

Today I'll write about shopping in Hudson; tomorrow I'll show you the French lunch spot we found there, then on Wednesday I'll spotlight a sweet treat we enjoyed and on Thursday I will expound on Church's Persian-style home called Olana.

My first stop in Hudson was to the supermarket, but it was nothing like you might expect. This antique shop-filled town boasts a "get lost in for hours" store called the Hudson Super Market. This large retail space (formerly a supermarket - wink) has an enormous variety of vintage items and antiques for sale. 

I was tempted by all sorts of interesting conversation pieces. I loved the selection of glass chemistry beakers, mismatched hotel china and a small collection of ribbons awarded years and years ago at a horse show.  I found interesting items everywhere I looked.  When I am staging areas of my house, I like to create little vignettes and this interesting shop was loaded with the kind of unique pieces that would really tell a story.

The Hudson Supermarket is also loaded with furniture, signage and architectural pieces that just wouldn't fit in an overhead compartment.  If you are ever on a driving trip to Hudson, looking for statement pieces for your home, you will have hit the jackpot. Someday I will be back...with a station wagon.

Another intriguing shop in Hudson is called Rural Residence. What caught my eye right away? This display of tiny Farrow and Ball paint cans.  I know, you just never know with me, do you? There was something about these cans that made me want them.  Was it that they looked like tinned candles?  I think, deep down, it was the fact that they represent my favorite thing: color.

The store has a beautiful selection of coffee table books, unique cards and paper items, a few pieces by the artist John Derian and a large display by Bellocq Tea Atelier.  I know! I haven't seen a Bellocq Tea display since I was in Houston!

Every item in the store gives the feeling that it has been carefully selected to inspire and delight.  I could have shopped here far longer than I did, but it was time to move our group toward lunch down the street.  I tell you, I need more time in Hudson, New York! 

There were other shop windows that looked interesting - antique stores, flower shops, design spots as well as many abandoned buildings looking for tenants.  Hudson seems like a town that is ready to grow, and with the shops and spots that are already committed to its success, I think Hudson will be a magnet for design enthusiasts for years to come. 

Josh Kilmer-Purcell and Anne Reeves at the Beekman 1802 Farm

Josh Kilmer-Purcell and Anne Reeves at the Beekman 1802 farm.

I finally made it to upstate New York to visit my friends, Josh and Brent at their farm in Sharon Springs.  I have known Josh since college, where we were English majors at Michigan State University.  I was part of a close knit group of friends (Josh, Tracy, Kerry, Me) and I don't think a day went by that I didn't see them.  We are all still good friends, but life has us living in separate parts of the country and our "visits" are more often on the phone, than in person (though I do get to see Tracy next month!).  

Over time, Dan and I have become friends with Josh's husband, Brent too and we try to see each other whenever we go to New York or they come to Michigan on a book tour.  

We started planning this trip back in January and were so happy to be able to combine a visit to see Dan's relatives near Albany with a trip to see Josh and Brent and the world of Beekman 1802 that they've built in Sharon Springs.

This is their beautiful Beekman mansion on a picture perfect July day.  

Now we've come to the portion of this blog post where I get to rave about my friends. Maybe you know of them already, Josh and Brent are The Fabulous Beekman Boys.  I know, can you stand it?  

They are stars of a reality show on the Cooking Channel called "The Fabulous Beekman Boys." It revolves around how two Manhattanites leave the big city to work and live on a beautiful piece of property in a quiet New York town called Sharon Springs. The house (built by William Beekman in 1802), land and its history takes on a life of its own and eventually turns Josh and Brent into "accidental farmers" that create a lifestyle brand around products like goat milk soap, cheese and heirloom vegetables.  You can delve into their fascinating world and shop for all of their wonderful products online at Beekman 1802.

Is a show about a goat farm a little crazy? Yes. Is it a bit like "Green Acres?" You bet. But it is also light, charming, and a really fun blend of modern life with age old farming rules. Tweeting & pigs? Josh. Worried about having a clean farm? Brent. 

The show is full of love and nature and goats. The beautiful cinematography showcasing all four seasons on the farm alone makes it worth watching.  And my friends do indeed show the world what I've known all along...they are fabulous.  

So when Josh wanted to "show us around" the house and farm, we were technically walking around a television set.  Yes, this is the barn that houses all their beloved goats.  I must say, it was surreal (and wonderful) to visit my friends' home, after having seen it on national tv and in the pages of Country Living magazine.  It is a wonderful place to call home and since filming ended a while ago, the house and farm seem peaceful.  How could you not relax with a summer breeze blowing across the open landscape?

Josh and Brent have so many interesting aspects to their life and business and I want you to know them and support them, as I do.  I will share more about my visit to their mercantile soon.  

Hudson and Mohawk Valley View

I've been on an adventure in upstate New York.  This incredible view is from the Helderberg Escarpment in Albany and is compliments of Uncle Bob and Aunt Jan, who drove us to this spectacular vista to help us get a sense of where we were.  What a day!  

I am just home now and pulling together all of my thoughts to pour into the blog.  Stay tuned for paint, art and goats.  I'm serious!